According to women’s studio director Julie de Libran, Louis Vuitton’s pre-fall starting point was its spring runway. Extra volume was added for a more masculine, boxy fit on some looks, while on others, lace and couture references amped up the feminine drama. For the latter, de Libran looked to Sixties French film noir, specifically the heroines of François Truffaut’s movies. Thus the abundance of lace — “from baptism to funeral,” de Libran said — that appeared in traditional form as well as on prints, mohair knit jacquards, and was flocked on double satin and embossed on gabardine.

As for the boxy fits, there were constructed shoulders throughout, shown on oversize riding coats paired with A-line leather short skirts and little jackets with cropped masculine pants. The T-shirts and sweater tops, some with prim Peter Pan collars, gave a sporty, easy touch. As for the accessories, bold Eighties jewelry, crystallized heels and shoes with velvet bows added a flash of high glam.

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