Classic severity with a touch of punk was the theme of Maison Martin Margiela’s pre-fall collection, which was heavy on volume and shape. The design team worked narrow shoulders and multiple darts on jackets and coats, and gave a masculine twist to a loose-fitting smoking suit. Leather biker jackets were a key piece here, manipulated into a painted vest and a more classic version with pilings of fur. Lengths were shorter than past seasons with sexy minis and cropped pants.

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