Exclusive fabrics have long been showstoppers for the house of Rochas, and Marco Zanini’s two key choices this season — a decadent gold-and-brown brocade and a richly hued puckered floral — were just that. Cut into voluminous topcoats, shirt- or dress-length tunics and cropped pants with a bit of kick at the bottom, the styles predominantly leaned retro, even gamine at times with the addition of tiny collars and cap sleeves. Zanini wisely balanced them out with everyday items like a playful collegiate sweater and a nubby wool T-shirt, not to mention a series of amped-up pastel pieces that added a touch of sweetness to the otherwise heady fare.

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