Balthus schoolgirl uniforms were subtly referenced in Adam Lippes’ first pre-fall collection. A black skirt with suspenders featured peekaboo detailing on the pleats, while another pleated skirt was done in double-faced black leather with organza inserts.

As expected, shirting was a huge component here but the magic was in the details: the pearl buttons on the collar and sleeves of a blue oxford, as well as a white tuxedo shirtdress that could go from day to evening — especially when topped with a black double-faced duchess satin coat that hinted at the importance of outerwear throughout the lineup. There was a great reversible cashmere cape, burgundy on one side, beige on the other, and a splurge-worthy tonal fox-fur coat with rust undertones.

Lippes finished on a chic note with an evening group of dresses and separates in black duchess satin that exuded an understated luxury.

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