Home comfort. Francisco Costa’s beautiful pre-fall collection evoked that sentiment via clothes with a lounge-y vibe, but also with a cool aesthetic that nodded to Belgian deconstruction. After the show, the designer cited the nostalgic photographs of Mike Kelley, as well as images of Sally Mann’s children as key inspirations. He channeled the vibe with several double-breasted coats, loosely tied and flared at the waist, with oversize buttons that added to the looks’ naïveté. One stunner came in a speckled jacquard, its pattern reflected in the languid, printed silk dress underneath.
Costa captured a similar feel with chic, cashmere knit camisoles and slouchy pants; even the ombré sequin work on a chiffon evening dress exuded confidence and ease. A slight misstep: the fur mules — too reminiscent of Phoebe Philo’s for Céline. Still, the lineup’s languid, pretty edge demonstrated that Costa is feeling right at home at Calvin Klein.