Derek Lam set out to “make individual pieces that are covetable” for pre-fall, delivering on his goal with beautiful coats in inventive treatments, such as mohair that looked convincingly like shearling, stretch velvet that looked like pony hair and a bottle-green bomber done in straight-up mink. Lam also made a case for bell-bottoms, whether with bonded jersey trousers or flared shorts.

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