Pre-fall was all about layers at Helmut Lang, as Nicole and Michael Colovos focused on essential wardrobe pieces — chunky cotton knits; structured sweatshirts and tanks, and coated linen blazers — that could be piled on or stripped off as the interim season changes. The silhouette was more elongated than it’s been in the past, and some of the more directional looks in the lineup worked with the illusion of layering, such as a shift dress cut to look like three items.

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