Hussein Chalayan’s great pre-fall lineup combined skillful structure and fluid draping. Chalayan said he arrived at the designs by piecing together different fabrics — inspired by the various architectural surfaces and structures in his office — into one item and seeing what shapes emerged once draped.

While the starting point may have been conceptual, the clothes had an air of insouciance. There were bonded jersey column dresses with subtle tucks at the neckline, a softly structured bustier top in deep red caddy jersey and a roomy draped cardigan made from four yarns. Chalayan noted that his fall collection would continue on the idea, with a focus on more sculptural pieces.

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