With the lengthy selling time of pre-fall comes a challenge: “It encompasses a lot of seasons,” said Oscar de la Renta, who addressed the issue with a collection of variety. Divided into eight groups that covered the sleek urban sophisticate, the traditional, the suited uptown dame with a twist, the gilded glamour girl and those attending a grand ball, the 40-look lineup was unified by de la Renta’s unwavering stance that “the most important thing is to make a woman look great.”

It was classic de la Renta, infused with modernity, particularly for the daywear: A forest green double-faced cashmere and angora sleeveless trench, belted low on the hips and worn with matching palazzo pants, for example, and the black-and-white fringed sweater over a full, polka dot guipure skirt.

For evening, de la Renta offered colorful grandeur with ballgowns tied with exaggerated bows in the back, and slick bohemian glam with a gold lamé wrap gown trimmed in embroidery that jingled.

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