“It’s the idea of things being slightly undone, after having been so nipped in and corseted,” said Sarah Burton of her pre-fall Alexander McQueen collection, which put the accent on long, elegant silhouettes with an edgy undercurrent.
Taking her cues from early Nineties men’s tailoring, as well as Art Nouveau and elements of Victorian dressing, these clothes had an air of off-hand luxury. There were masculine pieces such as a hip-length tailored vest in boiled cashmere with visible basting stitches and washed silk lapels — worn over a long satin dress — while an ankle-length coat had washed-silk details at its hem and cuffs, meant to look like the garment’s linings.
Meanwhile, the Art Nouveau influence came via sinuous silk jacquard evening dresses in black or white, woven with silver tulips that bloomed across their skirts. Petticoat-like camisole dresses were crafted from layers of washed silk and delicate lace panels in shades of black and pale gray. Some of those dresses were given a luxurious edge with beaded shrugs that wound around the neck and shoulders.
Accessories nodded to the collection’s artfully dressed-down feel with fur stoles that fastened at the neck via heavy silver chains, biker boots with mink tongues and skinny silver belts fashioned from coat hangers.