“Lonsdale meets Monsieur Ungaro,” said Fausto Puglisi during his pre-fall appointment. The London clothing brand often favored by skinheads has nothing in common with the founder best known for his sexy aesthetic, but Puglisi pulled the two together with a strong, almost raw energy. He worked vivid hues and men’s wear patterns on silhouettes that leaned toward classic, including kimono jackets and suits. Chevrons got particular play: one look featured the motif on a jacket, mink skirt and boots. Like much of the lineup, the ensemble had graphic impact.

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