For pre-fall, Riccardo Tisci delivered a strategic evolution of his stellar spring lineup, recasting the perfect jackets, tuxedo trousers and pleated earth-goddess dresses in Bauhaus colors and a variation on a Gustav Klimt print. “Klimt has been an obsession and I find it very ethnic in a way,” said Tisci of the motif that appeared on jackets and dresses with touches of paillettes in the pleats.

The femininity and glamour of a draped jersey dress in red sequins were offset by sturdy accessories such as boots and cuffs with big buckles and the new Rave bag. Shaped like a vintage European shopping bag, the rectangular frame was inspired by the practical needs of kids at raves. “It has to be not very expensive, very cool and useful,” Tisci said.

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