Pre-fall was the lone collection caught in Louis Vuitton’s limbo between artistic visions as the house transitions from Marc Jacobs to Nicolas Ghesquière. Thus, the design team’s lineup tread lightly — yet luxuriously — in terms of direction, offering “timeless classics with a utilitarian vibe,” according to the press notes.
Shown at a preview were new takes on tweed suits with bomber jackets — one was short and neat in green, another was loose and cocoonlike with studded jewel trim — and LV graffiti done in sequined letters on knits and dresses and printed on over-the-knee boots. Rich colors like burgundy and deep green dovetailed with the mood of the season.
On another note, Vuitton is investing in its Icons collection, building out the more casual accompaniment to its main collection with the late architect Charlotte Perriand as muse. There was a defined outdoorsy attitude to the clothes, many of which were reversible or convertible — such as pants that zipped off into Bermuda shorts and a sweater with zip-off sleeves. Camouflage knitwear and rugged mountain boots infused the look with a cozy, youthful edge, while deluxe outerwear, like a cream shearling cape and green leather trench, played to the traditional Vuitton luxury.