Now showing under the label Theory, as opposed to Theyskens’ Theory, Olivier Theyskens stuck to the core of the brand, reworking its polished practicality with a relaxed attitude. Shirts, pants and blazers were cut loose and light in silk, cotton and stretch linen, with more directional items delivered in a spare white jumpsuit, a crisp cotton dress worn with an abstract cable-knit sweater and a beautiful sheer embroidered dress. The latter captured Theyskens’ taste for dark glamour in a look meant for reality.

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