Following the departure of former creative director Peter Dundas in October, Roberto Cavalli’s in-house design team was challenged to create the pre-fall collection. It was a delicate mission for the team, considering the relevance of pre-collection sales for the commercial success of a brand. Understandably, the team played it safe and conceived a lineup deeply rooted in the heritage of the house. While Dundas tried to define a more free-spirited, very young — probably too young — aesthetic for the label, which actually didn’t pay back in terms of sales, pre-fall came with a glamorous, more luxurious attitude. Tailored capes and jackets with military-inspired details, as well as more flamboyant fur coats, worn with miniskirts, printed denim pants and plissé dresses, defined a functional yet elegant wardrobe. The maxi frocks, featuring ruffles, slits, cutouts and metallic details in the shape of the house’s signature snake, recalled the sensual silhouettes that contributed to the success of the brand during the tenure of founder Roberto Cavalli. The brand’s most loyal clients will find plenty of options to carry in their stores. That said, the company’s owner, private equity firm Clessidra, is looking for a new creative director to revamp the fashion house.

load comments