Franz Mayer of Munich, a glassmaking company owned by a longtime Talbot Runhof customer, served as the jumping-off point for designing duo Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof’s playfully feminine pre-fall lineup. With her own glassmaking store neighboring Talbot Runhof’s Munich flagship, the customer had been asking the designers to visit her factory for 25 years. The duo finally conceded, and were enamored by the colorful and intricate glass pieces and murals the company creates — including, most recently, the life-size human murals at the newly opened Second Avenue subway line in New York.
The most literal interpretation of the inspiration was seen in an editorial-friendly feather and glass top with metal connective thread, graphic and broken up just like a mural. A “glass sequin” fabric, consisting of jacquard and woven paillettes, provided structure as well as a velvety touch to chic tailored gowns and other flouncy dresses. There were stained-glass prints and the designers’ own embroidered mosaics with politically driven messages, like “She Got More Votes” and “2,864,974” (Hillary Clinton’s margin of victory in the popular vote in last year’s presidential election). “We’re still in mourning,” Talbot quipped at a preview. Even a vintage floral vinyl embroidery from the Seventies, bought by Runhof’s mother and used in Talbot’s first collection in the Nineties, reminded the duo of glasswork flowers made at the workshop and were used as playful trim.
Apart from all the glass, there were updates to evening fare, including relaxed silhouettes in heavy jersey, and signature drapes reinvented with asymmetry and more generous cuts. Denim was a standout, interpreted as a floor-skimming gown and cuffed pants.