From a reviewer’s perspective, a designer calling his or her collection “an evolution” is not what you want to hear. Please, pretty please, give us something to work with. But sometimes the clothes are simply a variation on what’s already working and that’s just fine — better than fine, in the case of Victoria Beckham’s pre-fall lineup.
“This collection really is an evolution of the VB wardrobe,” said Beckham, during a private mini show at her Chelsea showroom in Manhattan. She fleshed that statement out just a bit, noting that there was a real focus on shirts and skirts — what she wants to wear right now — as opposed to the dresses that were the foundation and the pants that have anchored the past few seasons. All of the above were present in the lineup, where the real story — in addition to skirts, shirts, pant and dresses — was a modernist bourgeois attitude and a lively and unusual assortment of color.
Classics were bent through the Beckham lens of professional chic, with pink-and-white and blue-and-white men’s shirting; bodycon knit dressing; and deconstructed tailored jackets over languid, wide-leg pants and spare, stark white sneakers. “I like wearing color and I want to find new ways to wear it,” said the designer. She used eclectic, strong colors in unintimidating ways. A pink satin-back crepe skirt was layered under a beige teddy bear bouclé jacket with a raw hem. Turquoise popped on a Fair Isle-esque sweater and skirt set and on pumps with a high throat and nail heel (they also came in bright white). The commercial collection hanging on rails around the room was filled with red, moss-green velvet and mélange marble prints. For the first time, Beckham is producing jewelry to sell — mismatched earrings and necklaces with metal loop hardware.