Giving a new twist to simple, minimal designs may seem like a hackneyed statement, but that is quite literally what Tokyo-based designer Keiko Onose has mastered. The Tokyo-based designer, who was a buyer for United Arrows before opening her own store and turning her eye to design, twisted high-end fabrics like wool, cashmere, crushed satin and cotton into ample, often asymmetric shapes by altering subtle details in their cut and finish that made them different, elegantly framing the body but with a gauche charm.

It was difficult to pick standouts in this deceptively simple collection, but her play on fluid, shiny fabrics — an addition for this collection — contrasting with very matte textures spoke for itself. Her outerwear was worth a special mention, such as a cozy-looking pale gray wrap coat in a blend of wool, angora and cashmere with mink pocket details or a silk bomber jacket ruched across the back. New to the lineup for pre-fall was the addition of more fluid fabrics, including a sludgy green midlength skirt and A-line top that added pops of color to her otherwise muted palette.

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