Josep Font is fond of unusual pairings. His pre-fall collection for Delpozo, shown in Paris for the first time, was inspired both by the minimalist lines of Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer and the intricate botanical collages of 18th-century British artist Mary Delany.
Niemeyer’s sensually curved buildings appear like a natural springboard for the Spanish designer’s couturelike constructions. The organic details, meanwhile, included graphic three-dimensional leaf-shaped bows and crafty embroidered wool flowers, which also appeared on handbags and shoes.
Colors ranged from hothouse shades of pink, turquoise and orange to neutral tones: navy for a top with sculptural bows sprouting from the sides, or ivory for a nip-waisted jacket and lampshade skirt that was a study in extreme volume, thanks to curved shoulder seams and strategically placed padding.
This was modern-day armor for the career woman: A navy off-the-shoulder shift with a dramatic whorl of fabric at the neck was underpinned by a corset made of layers of silk tulle — not a whale bone in sight. Casual-yet-chic options included color-blocked intarsia sweaters and wide cropped pants with extralarge cuffs.
Every item bore witness to Font’s extreme attention to detail, with exquisite finishings and unexpected details, like a row of pale green crystals running down the spine of a diaphanous pale pink pleated evening gown. “I don’t design for a specific age group or body type,” he explained. “It’s more an attitude, a way of feeling different.” Or put differently, elegance is timeless.