Christopher Bailey took his cue this season from Burberry archive photos of British military men posted in tropical and exotic climes. “And I wanted the pieces to look like they had a life before we met them,” said Burberry’s chief creative officer during a walk-through at the company’s London headquarters. “It’s not a revolutionary collection — it’s an evolution from fall,” he said, referring to his sartorial romp through the ranks of Britain’s armed forces.
This season’s silhouette is slim, tubular, figure-hugging and elongating — and texture is a major theme. “I set out to create texture from flat fabrics,” Bailey said, pointing to cotton lace overlays for trenches and dresses; washed, ruched leather for coats and boots; lizard effects on fabrics, and cowhides as soft as velvet. For tough, Indiana Jones-loving gals there are weathered-looking military canvas jackets with stretch panels worn with wide python belts and rivets galore on trenches and coats.
Bailey carried his lean silhouette over to the men’s collection, with snug, two-button schoolboy jackets; skinny-fit shirts and leather trenches; and narrow “carrot leg” trousers. He played with textures, too, turning out chunky, cotton hand-knit v-neck sweaters, superfine cashmere crewneck knits and soft bonded napa biker jackets.