For cruise, Phoebe Philo is staying true to the minimal look that put Celine back on the fashion map. Mining the Seventies and the Nineties, Philo puts her woman in clean sportswear, from white cotton drill tunics to sleek halter gowns in white and electric orange. Fabrics such as silk and cotton are washed and ultralight, while shots of paisley and microdots — on easy blouses and shirtdresses — are inspired by men’s wear, or “dandy daywear.” Philo also reworks jute pieces from her first runway outing, lending a crispness to linen dresses lined with leather and detailed with industrial zippers.

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