Phoebe Philo gave her sharp, sporty vision for Celine a little breathing room for resort, and why not? The whole season is based on the nice but implausible notion of a prolonged vacation. She relaxed the silhouette, airing out her signature shirting with loose, pajamalike cuts and sleeveless tunics belted into loose ruffles and worn over wide pants. Shapes were plain and geometric but punched up with neon colors, such as a fluorescent pink shirtdress with a drop waist and pleated skirt, and more prints than we’ve ever seen from Philo. She showed them head-to-toe, first graphic as with a black-and-white check on matching shirt and pants, and then floral, such as an oversize flower motif and a multicolored jacquard that looked feminine without being sweet.

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