The renewed French fur house just relaunched for winter and now designer Andrew Heather has managed to turn out a pre-spring lineup using fur — and soon he’ll be challenged to do the same for spring. For this capsule collection, he did the job with a witty hand, using pelt mostly as embellishment. The main animal motif came via specially manufactured guipure lace worked to resemble a cat’s spotty fur. Veiled in tulle, the fabric was used for skirt suits and long voluptuous dresses with touches of wool felt appliqués degrading into strips of fox fur or shaved mink that looked like ultrasoft velvet. (The gowns had an air of Paul Poiret couture frocks.) For day, elaborately cut trenches were done in double-faced kangaroo skin, which created a crinkled paper feel.

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