“It’s ‘Valley of the Dolls’ meets Upper East Side meets Amish — there’s strictness, but also irreverence.” That’s how Erdem Moralioglu described his eclectic resort collection, which drew on inspirations ranging from Sixties plastic to granny chic to traditional quilting. He combined light crepe fabrics (developed in Italy and made to look like neoprene) with tweeds for a patchwork effect, and many of the necklines, belts and dresses were embroidered by hand, some with neon-pink threads. He also worked digital prints of lace fabric and sequins onto dresses for a “plastic fantastic fake embroidery” look. Swimwear, a new category for the brand, had a Forties feel, while earrings were developed with Erickson Beamon.

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