“California Modern” with a twist on a “butterfly girl of the Seventies” is how Francisco Costa viewed resort this season. But rather than taking the hippie route — this is Calvin Klein, after all — Costa delivered a sexy and sophisticated lineup of clothes with summer ease. That meant soft prints, such as a dot one, shown to charming effect in various versions, inspired by the Calvin dress Lisa Taylor wore in that iconic 1975 Helmut Newton photograph. Equally beautiful were Costa’s more structured, architectural looks — including a striking yellow number with a split neckline and a bandeau top — as well as the fluid T-shirt dresses he layered over constructed halter ones.

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