A recent Miami vacation ended up being a studious destination for Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing. His entire resort collection was inspired by the city — its Art Deco architecture, palm trees, old swimming pool mosaics, strong pastels such as flamingo pink, pale acid yellow, turquoise and mint — which translated into quite a sexy lineup. He focused on a more voluminous silhouette, demonstrated via boxy tailored jackets with large shoulders and dropped waists, worn with mannish pleated pants which Rousteing said were ironically inspired by “Miami Vice.” But it’s the city’s old Cuban cafes that the designer found most impressive, their motifs appearing in intricately woven embroidery worked on raffia dresses and jackets with open-back panels, all worn with matte chrome belts inspired by a Fifties Cadillac.

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