A recent collaboration with Ellsworth Kelly was still top of Francisco Costa’s mind for resort, but the artist’s vibrant paintings weren’t his main point of inspiration. “The palette is about Ellsworth Kelly’s studio — the wooden tables, the shoes,” Costa said backstage before the show. Kelly’s workspace, along with cues from Irving Penn’s “Small Trades” photo series and a hefty dose of Seventies ease, made for a lineup that demonstrated a more languid side to Costa’s aesthetic, with many elements that were essentially Calvin Klein himself. Costa showed a variety of tops that bared the midriff, many of them paired with floor-length skirts. The era in which Klein became a household name was also evident in the use of ultrasuede for cool shirtdresses and a chic coat in a traditional winter green worn with a matching skirt and white crop top.

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