“I’m kind of obsessed with cool girls,” said Olivier Theyskens, describing his latest collection. “What she’s doing in the clothes, how she would wear them, what essentials she’ll need.” The answer was a lineup of mostly black and white pieces, precisely tailored with a dash of street. A sleeveless semisheer midi dress, for example, was fashioned from a 4-D mesh with its underpinning cut into a plunging V-neck and miniskirt, offering just a hint of skin to the otherwise modest style. Nineties sportswear details, like snaps and a narrow collar, found their way onto a leather shirt, while denim was bleached out, hems or necklines effectively tattered.

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