While his fall collection offered sporty touches to temper the aggressively feminine lineup, this time around they were front and center. “The idea is sport luxe,” said Simkhai, pulling out a pair of basketball shorts in metallic pink leather as an example. The designer is embracing the resources the CFDA Incubator program has afforded him, stepping up his game with fabric and knit development — a simple boxy top looked downright glamorous in a bubble jacquard and sweatpants were elegant in a diamond pattern peekaboo knit. He also continued playing with colorblocking, most notably on body-con and fit-and-flare dresses.

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