“Surface and substance.” Frida Giannini’s mantra for Gucci’s resort collection played out chicly with interpretations of house codes, foremost her new versions of the signature Flora pattern. The designer collaborated with Canadian artist Kris Knight, and although they read “pretty floral” on the pastel cinched silk shirtdresses with detachable contrast collars, long sleeves and pleated skirts, there was more than met the eye. Each nocturnal blossom evoked flowers that women in pagan Rome plucked to empower, Giannini explained, be it for healing, seduction, magic or poison.

There was also some strong outerwear — especially the napa-leather-bonded python coat shown with a crisp ensemble of a beige top and mint miniskirt — and denim, for which Giannini worked a distinct sailor vibe. As for the slinky silk gowns with crystal embroidery snaking along the neck and waist, they were executed with the right control and, like those flowers, they were ready to come out at night.

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