Joseph Altuzarra mentioned the Rainer Werner Fassbinder movie “Querelle” as a way into the maritime theme prominent in his resort collection, but he didn’t need a reason to go there. Nautical motifs — not to mention Romanian blouses, fringe and tasseled details and lean, mean pencil skirts — have become part of Altuzarra’s vocabulary, and this lineup was about crystallizing classics.
He tweaked and refined the details on key silhouettes, such as with variations on the neat dresses that looked like a blouse and skirt, and peacoats with detachable collars that came in different colors. Silk fringe decorated the necklines of crepe dresses, some of which were floor length, a new hemline for Altuzarra, who typically favors classic pencil cuts. The tassels gave a touch of artisanal chic that was echoed in the shoes, Altuzarra’s first in-house collection, including colorful gladiators studded with shells and sleek, ankle-strap pumps.