If the late Sixties/early Seventies is not the fashion era most closely associated with the house of Calvin Klein, it is where it all started. Francisco Costa worked from that point of view for resort, mostly in terms of silhouette, punching up shifts, cropped biker jackets, A-line skirts and rubber Chelsea boots in technically driven, ultramodern fabrications. There was a luxe athleticism to the lean cuts with sporty, sleeveless shoulders, robust zipper details and the use of scuba fabric for the opening trench and compacted nylon on single-shoulder tops that brought to mind swimwear.

The shapes and colors started out minimal with the latter building from neutrals — black, navy, white, beige — to bright and buoyant. Cerulean blue and pink introduced an artful finale that playfully drew on the cutout work of Matisse (Vanessa Beecroft and Laurie Simmons were also references). A navy-and-white sleeveless dress flaunted an optical tree print and a similar silhouette featured Lucite flower embroidery that channeled the “youthful fun” vibe Costa was going for.

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