By his own admission, Thom Browne is not known for color. “People think I only do gray and navy, so I’m throwing it in everybody’s face,” said Browne, who knew he wanted his color in the form of florals, but not in a classically pretty way — too boring. The many prints, embroideries and 3-D grosgrain appliqués that brought a wonderfully cartoonish, semipsychedelic bloom to his resort collection were born from the most banal bouquet out there: gerbera daisies by the bunch at the corner deli. It was wearably directional and quite charming.
Silhouettes came from Browne’s men’s tailoring: tailcoats, sport coats and Chesterfields feminized with skirts cut below the knee, some in fringed panels, or short, flared and styled over slim pants. He twisted the traditional, layering looks with corsets in men’s shirting fabrics, and updating the twinset and granny tweeds. A top and matching skirt were embroidered with anatomically placed flowers — one for each bosom and one…for down there.