David Koma played with contrasts for this year’s resort collection.
Drawn to the elegance of Fifties fashions, the designer offered an array of flared hems, midi skirts and dresses that were toughened up and made to look more contemporary with the addition of zips, cutouts and geometric metallic embellishments, inspired by German artist Heinz Mack. The rigid lines and graphics that characterize Mack’s work were apparent through the diagonal cuts of miniskirts, the graphic patterns featured on stretch-knit crop tops and the zigzag embroidery on a mesh fabric. Among the highlights: a white flared skirt whose soft, calf-length curves were juxtaposed with diagonal black macramé lace panels, and a midi dress with a contrasting cutout, leather top.
The collection’s eveningwear offer blended the same references to Mack’s graphic work with the high glamour Koma is known for. A combination of Swarovski crystals and plexiglass was sewn onto bodycon dresses in rhombus and argyle patterns, creating dazzling optical illusions as the colors graduated from a soft peach to silver and purple. “When I explore a new theme, it’s always within the David Koma girl’s universe,” the designer said.