Markus Lupfer looked to the jungle and the creatures that inhabit it for a “pretty-meets-tough” collection aimed at the lady who is “maybe a bit London, a bit cooler; she wants to feel pretty but also tough,” as the designer said. To that end, “we did a lot in unexpected combos, like the silk with utilitarian cotton, or two different silks mixed together.”
Lace played a big role — as in a pleated skirt with a hidden slit done in a bold magenta hue — while tonal needlepoint embroideries popped on traditional military jackets or trenchcoats in the shape of bees, birds or snakes. Lupfer further worked the bee motif in a Lurex jacquard for a cropped jacket and a dress and as hand-beaded embellishments for blouses. He also blended leopard-print and tropical banana leaf shapes and recast them into a camouflage print for shorts and tops. It all amounted to a series of what the designer dubbed “playful, but confident” looks.