As he did for fall, Tuomas Merikoski channeled Finland’s teen spirit, this time with a little help from The Moomins, the cult Finnish book series and Seventies TV series. “It’s very much a part of Finland’s identity, from a punk boy to a bourgeois girl,” the designer said. His resort collection, Uusi Fantasia, which translates as “New Fantasy,” seeks to capture through a “Finnish-grunge” lens the Moomin theme of “freedom of expression,” he added, breaking the barriers between raw and luxe, old and young, masculine and feminine.
Playing on duality, Merikoski reworked men’s jackets, crop tops honed from kids’ T-shirts and classic men’s polo shirts and split-personality dresses in exclusive jersey check fabric that were part T-shirt, part drapey frock. To-die-for denim included a take on the house’s signature high-waist baggy pant, pleated at the front for elegant volume, and an oversize Moomin-embroidered jacket sporting a longer back panel and contrast washes on the neck and sleeves. The palette — a range of cool blues and whites with pops of bold yellow and burgundy — steered clear of black to show that Finland, despite its long, dark winters, is also a place of beautiful colors.