Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant like to take things one at a time. Two seasons in at Courrèges, they’ve already completed their first mission: to make the dusty Space Age label desirable again and open it up to a younger audience. For their first resort effort for the house, the designers took a more black-and-white point of view, ditching the pop colors to sharpen the lens on their purist designs. “We wanted to explore the [relationship] between the construction of the clothes and the House’s factory in Pau, in Southwest France,” said Meyer, referring to the building designed by André Courrèges — “Le Corbusier of fashion” — in 1972.
But Meyer and Vaillant have a way of honoring the Courrèges legacy while keeping things light, deftly bridging the past and future with their own experimentations with new technology. Case in point: the line’s layered, shiny-black, 3-D-printed polyurethane shorts whose rounded volume nods to Courreges’ early cocoon forms.
The outerwear was stellar, spanning minimalist rubber macs with sharp, soldered seams, rivet-like snaps marking out the pockets and an archive-inspired collar with a double-snap closure, and fresh updates on the iconic Sixties Courrèges vinyl jacket in a monochrome patchwork of rubber, pinstriped wool and smooth and textured vinyl.
The focus was on simple, graphic, wearable styles, but there was also a flash of Meyer and Vaillant’s fun beam-me-up side in the line’s showpiece coat, its sculptural silver meshlike surface embroidered with vinyl elements and fixed with snaps.