As an experienced luxury retailer, Tokyo-based Keiko Onose — who started her collection as a private label for her store, The SecretCloset — has exacting standards and it shows. Her goal — “to create the ideal wardrobe for a modern woman with a multifaceted character” — may sound ambitious, but her approach is measured. Nothing is too noticeably design-driven, keeping the focus on beautiful fabrics and flattering forms.

 

This season’s lineup of luxe essentials showed personality without shouting. A minimalist butterscotch leather bomber had a subtle smocked collar and peasant sleeves, a nod to Seventies Yves Saint Laurent; a vein of white — visible to only a keen eye — ran up the line of a wool cardigan. A roomy duster sported slit pockets integrated in the back seams, allowing the wearer’s hands to plunge in and bring the volume forward. Even the hand-embroidered zebra-stripe velvet motifs on several looks managed to be discreetly distinctive.

 

A classic palate dominated, with the odd bright pop — like the romantic, lemon blouse that Onose, with her unique eye, paired with a flared green denim skirt.

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