Nineties youth was the starting point for Paco Rabanne resort, nodding specifically to Mathieu Kassovitz’s cult French movie “La Haine,” based on disillusioned kids living in the Paris suburbs. Not that the mood of the line — with its signature combination of sporty, sharp lines and a bright, sci-fi-scented palette hooked on graphic mixes of red, silver and white — was downbeat.
Cue black, blue and silver jumpsuits cut from technical cotton, nylon and satin; graphic minis with supersized drawstring hoodies gathering at the front to form a soft collar effect, and uniform-inspired looks pairing vinyl tops and apron skirts with oversized pleats and strap accents, say.
Merch-friendly nods to the house’s Space Age roots included techy silver anoraks and minis in snakeskin-print metal mesh or laser-cut jersey. Second-skin black jersey knits sported patches embroidered with the logo of a head with a rainbow brain — a badge, perhaps, for this urban, cool-kid tribe?
In this fresh, sporty lineup, Julien Dossena also continued to push his athletic innerwear theme via bra tops in bathing suit-like black technical jersey joined by silver rings and leggings with thick elastic Paco Rabanne-emblazoned underwear bands — another wink to the bygone decade.
Creepers and sneaker versions of the designer’s Space Age motorcycle boots finished off the looks, along with mini takes on the house’s half-moon and bucket bags.