For Redemption’s debut resort collection, Gabriele “Bebe” Moratti imagined “an impossible conversation” between two counterculture movements in music history that emerged in different periods and places in the U.S.: the golden age of Flower Power on the West Coast in the mid-Sixties and punk’s beginnings in New York. “You know, CBGB at the end of the Seventies/early Eighties,” he said, referring to the East Village club where now-mythic acts such as The Ramones, the New York Dolls and Television started out.
The punk appeared in the plethora of black, particularly black leather — realized in skin-tight lace-up pants and studded, flouncy miniskirts and biker jackets with “Redemption” scrawled on back. The hippie spirit surfaced in lilac silk embroidered bombers, suede waistcoats with braiding details, caftans and flowing pleated skirts but the idea, said Moratti, who likes the idea of throwing a moto over a long dress, is that the two sides can intermix.
But the designer diluted the storyline with a bigger push on prints, ranging from sporty silk cargo pants to zebra-stripe sequin jackets and ruffled blouses in an Asian-style orange dragon motif. And he jumped the musical timeline via distressed T-shirts stamped with the release date of the first Guns N’ Roses album, “Appetite for Destruction.”