An imaginary conversation between British photographer David Hamilton and French artist Henri Rousseau was the starting point for Zuhair Murad’s handcraft-intensive collection. The line split into innocent pastel concoctions in Chantilly lace, dotted plumeti tulle and macramé inspired by Hamilton’s iconic soft-focused Seventies imagery, and structured, exotic-print jacquard jackets and gowns galore, nodding to Rousseau’s fantasy-jungle world.
Even in his newfound prêt-à-porter mode, the Lebanese couturier likes to ladle on the sugar and spice. The majority of the dress-centric line focused on demi-couture creations in delicate skin-baring fabrics for the cocktail hour, ranging from summery “sangallo” broderie anglaise minis embellished with beads, sequins and rhinestones to an elaborate black tulle dress in exotic appliqué motifs with thread and sequin embroidery.
The closest this unapologetically feminine collection got to casual was in the jet-embroidered denim, Seventies-inspired boho crochet knits in tropical bead embroidery and pretty raffia-embroidered basics in black, peacock-blue or purple cotton — the plain fabric being a first for the label. But for someone who has Jennifer Lopez on speed dial, one wouldn’t expect anything less.