Though this was his debut signature couture effort, Alexander Vauthier is no stranger to the fashion game, since he worked for three years with Thierry Mugler and spent eight years as studio director for Jean Paul Gaultier couture. It was the influence of Vauthier’s former mentor that showed in this collection, namely in the collection’s gimmicky pagoda-shoulder leitmotif. Infused with a léger soupçon of power dressing, Vauthier’s dress-centric lineup featured belted drapes positioned to reveal a thigh-high split, plunging necklines and asymmetric shoulders, one edged with jet embroidery. But while the independent designer casting real people as models added a slight rock edge, these frocks demanded super-human bods. Even Vauthier’s fashion-diehard guest, singer Roisin Murphy, failed to pull off one of the showpieces: a sheer white frock decorated with strokes of gold paint and crystals.

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