Marco De Vincenzo made a promising debut with a collection of body-conscious looks treated with a fabulous range of optical effects. De Vincenzo is part of Fendi’s leather goods design team, assisting Silvia Venturini Fendi, who attended the show, but “a burning desire to create dresses” drove him to join the growing brood of young couture voices. The designer displayed his knack for textile experimentation without letting it take over the clothes themselves. Pieces of red and black leather formed stripes across one stretch tulle pencil skirt, while geometric tone-on-tone coated jersey strips gave a 3-D textured spin to a long-sleeve, figure-hugging jersey dress. Other highlights included perforated leather pencil skirts in black or “industrial green” and strict minis studded with plastic nuts (as in the toolbox variety). And a couple of minimalist beaded neo-flapper dresses are sure to secure a few editorial pages.

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