Bouchra Jarrar’s daywear-driven collection crackled with modernity and Parisian chic — energized further with a dash of subversion. This is proving to be a combustible combination for a French designer carving out a unique and compelling point of view.
From the opening looks you were riveted: jaunty sleeveless peacoats with military buttons, the armholes or lapels trimmed with beaver fur. These and other toppers, in rustic English felts or muted houndstooth checks, were paired with sleek tuxedo pants in midnight blue.
There was a surfeit of terrific coats with loads of personality, each with an asymmetric element: a side closure, a sloping collar or a quarter moon of fur slung from one lapel. A sleeveless, inside-out shearling and a minimalist calfskin duster were each embellished with glossy leather in Mondrian-esque grids.
In the market for the Rolls-Royce of sailor sweaters? Jarrar’s came in black-and-ivory, its funnel neck festooned with a vertical strap of silver buttons. It looked ravishing over cream trousers.
Just as impactful was a dead-simple tank dress in midnight blue satin with a scooped back just slightly off-kilter. Or a chiffon T-shirt layered over a tank with necklines that don’t match up.
Jarrar is something of a wizard with scarves. Striped ones crisscrossed over the body and caught with leather belts formed simple tips; others melded with the harnesses she incorporates in every collection. Such subtle, precision details give Jarrar’s soigné clothes a subtle, futuristic allure — and an urgency that’s rare.