The team at Maison Martin Margiela scoured everywhere from New York garage sales to Paris auction houses for the Twenties-era flapper dresses that formed the basis of its Artisanal collection.
Taking the logic of made-to-measure couture a step further, the line consists of one-of-a-kind creations made using recycled clothing, accessories and objects. In this case, delicately beaded and embroidered vintage dresses were spliced with outerwear like a classic beige trenchcoat or an oversize Windbreaker. Others were restored and reassembled into column silhouettes, many with a Chinese vibe accentuated by the soundtrack, borrowed from the 2006 film adaptation of “The Painted Veil.”
Hundreds of black and white beads were embroidered over the original designs to create the illusion of thick brushstrokes, a Margiela signature. While the ancient-meets-modern concoctions retained the soulful quality of a flea-market find, the closing trio of dresses made from metallic candy wrappers seemed oddly out of place.