Stéphane Rolland has often said he approaches a dress like a sculpture. For this collection, shown at the Palais de Tokyo contemporary art museum, he sent out monochrome creations with volumes so demonstrative, they appeared to have jumped from sketchbook to runway with scarcely any alterations.

Is that a good thing? It depends on the occasion. Front-row guests like Paz Vega, who has worn Rolland to the Cannes Film Festival, could easily go for one of the siren gowns featuring yards of silk pooled into dramatic fishtail gowns, their skirts attached by a narrow sheer midsection. Judging from the show, these were not the best for walking but great for a photo op.

More structured numbers, like a black trouser suit with stiff ruffles running across both sleeves, were equally camera-ready, though perhaps more user-friendly.

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