Alexandre Vauthier pumped up the artistic side of his couture collection for spring. Braided leather added edge and texture to his body-hugging looks, while macramé tops and dresses — some were entirely knotted from hand-woven ropes — gave off an ethnic flair. Vauthier also experimented with sisal; the lightweight, malleable fabric helped him work undulating shapes on short ruffled dresses for a look that, surprisingly, was dressier than the rest of his show.

Vauthier offered a potpourri of references but never abandoned his familiar sexy disco theme, one that’s brought him red-carpet success. Here, his dancing queens showed leg and cleavage, the golden python collars on their leather jackets practically outshining photographers’ flashes.

More straightforward were looks done in a new Neoprenelike fabric made from waxed jersey. So light, it gave a stone-embroidered varsity jacket a shirtlike quality. Vauthier paired it with a white poplin shirtdress to great effect.

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