Ulyana Sergeenko said her couture collection was inspired by a train trip, but the journey ended up taking her to that most intimate of destinations: the boudoir.
The Russian designer loosened her famously buttoned-up collar with dishabille looks that contrasted hourglass corsets, some peeling open at the back, with slinky negligees.
Sweetheart-neckline corsets punctuated the lineup, raising the heat on a pair of chic powder-pink wide-legged pants and serving as the basis for everything from a frothy ivory cocktail dress with a lamp-shade skirt to curvy evening gowns in jewel-colored satin.
Though she cited Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan as the destinations for her imaginary travels, Sergeenko worked with chinoiserie accents such as embroidered blossoms on a scarlet silk jumpsuit. Beaded fringe swung from the capelet back of a midnight-blue, dressing gown-inspired evening dress.
“The gesture of wrapping oneself into something cozy is constantly expressed,” Sergeenko said in her show notes. Indeed, billowing quilted skirts looked as snuggly as comforters, while a satin ballgown skirt had an almost-casual feel when worn open over striped silk pajama pants.