Stripped of its usual glitter, Julien Macdonald’s show was meant to mark a fresh beginning in the designer’s career. Macdonald, famous for his glitzy shows and come-hither looks, has a new backer, Jamey Hargreaves, a fresh business plan and dreams of evolving from a designer label into a luxury brand. This season, the designer promised a more
grown-up show, and he didn’t disappoint. The color palette was neutral: taupe, cream and chocolate — with cornflower blue thrown into the mix. His shapes were stripped-down and simple: military-style dresses with epaulets, skinny suede high-waisted trousers and cropped python jackets. And because he can’t resist a sexy frock or two, there were draped jersey dresses in navy or cinnamon, with low-cut necklines or spaghetti straps. “Julien took the best of what he had, and moved to a new place with it — I love when someone can do that,” said longtime fan Joely Richardson, who sat in
Macdonald’s front row along with the glamorous Welsh mezzo-soprano Katherine Jenkins and Lady Victoria Hervey.

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