For his debut at Brioni, Alessandro Dell’Acqua deliberately kept things simple. From the crisp white small-collared shirts to an ample gray buttonless coat, the designer favored a “less is more” approach that put the spotlight on impeccable tailoring and luxurious fabrics. “Everything is much lighter, more sophisticated, more feminine and more contemporary than the Brioni woman was in the past,” he explained.

 

Dell’Acqua nodded to the men’s wear heritage of the house, which celebrates its 65th anniversary this year, with outfits like a precision-cut black tuxedo or a cream blazer with piped seams that curved into an hourglass shape. A toffee-colored pussycat-bow blouse with a crimson button-front A-line skirt was the picture of patrician class. But there was nothing stuffy about the sheer lace dresses, in ivory or black, or the Moroccan-inspired embroidered tunic shifts. What emerged from this concise display was the vision of a privileged lifestyle elegantly lived.

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